During the holidays we took a family trip to our usual New Orleans. This year we decided to start in San Francisco, on to Tahoe, then to Nawlins. It was a quick trip, just to eat in San Fran. We walked and ate, visited with some friends and then were gone. Being that the trip was so condensed, I had to choose wisely. Where to go?
We arrived in San Francisco late. I hate arriving in the dark. My first impression of color and bustle of a city are extremely important. I remember the first time I arrived in Venice. It was extremely late and dark and deserted and cold and well, meh.... When John and I emerged early the next morning, I was hit with the chill of the November air and the colors! It was amazing. I like arriving in daylight.
The kids were exhausted, it was late and they were starving. We quickly jumped into a cab and made our way to Delfina in the Mission. Being exhausted, we did not notice that the pizza place and the restaurant were adjoined, but with separate entrances. Once seated, we realized that pizza did not appear on the menu. When we asked, they directed us next door. We felt like asses, but they assured us they were not annoyed. We walked through the door at 11:01pm to be informed that they stopped serving at 11. Even though we explained that we were sitting next door, nope, no dice. It was okay. We ran back and were served a most delicious dinner. I am happy we did not miss out. I would have been sad. Our waiter was amazing and the food superb. We would return for spectacular pizza in two days time.
The weekend was filled with the Ferry Building, the farmers market, trips to Bi-Rite (excellent) and burritos in the Mission. We had one of the best meals ever at La Ciccia. Spaghetti with bottarga, lamb, clams, it was divine! We spent our day walking around the city and eating. Chinatown was fantastic and a trip to City Lights was mandatory. I purchased some poetry by Bukowski and the kids each purchased a book, while John checked out the cigar stores on the block.
I have the Tartine cookbook. I use it often. We were about to leave the city to drive to Tahoe and I realized that I had not been able to get to Tartine. I told John that this was important to me. It was closed when we went to Delfina for pasta and I was not sure that I could miss Tartine. He agreed and we jumped in a cab. $28 dollars later (he was not pleased) we arrived at the famous bakery. The line snaked around the block. John looked over at a pizza that was just placed on an outdoor table at Delfina. Pizzatime!!! Why not? So what if we had just had lunch with friends in the Barcadero? As we waited outside for our table, Hilary Swank appeared at the door. I leaned over to my 15 year old daughter, "Bean (we call her bean), Hilary Swank is inside."
Bean, "What? Million Dollar Baby Hillary Swank?"
Me, "Yup. She's inside eating carbs."
Bean, "Cool. Do you think I can ask her about acting?"
Me, "No. Please ignore her. Let her eat."
Bean, "But...she's a million dollar baby."
Me, "Everyone deserves to eat pizza unmolested. It should be a law."
Bean, "You're right."
Our table was set and we walked inside. Our backs were to Ms. Swank and we happily ate our arancini, our salads and of course, our amazing, perfect crust pizza. I snapped pics of the kids laughing and our pizza. Suddenly, Ms. Swank appeared before our table and while looking in another direction, announced that she did not like people taking pictures of her without her consent. Amen, sister. Wait...was that directed at me?!! NO. I was not taking pictures of you. Want to go through my film? I could not have. What was going on? She then rushed behind me to a table and happily posed with them for some authorized pictures. Whew. Not directed at me. Honestly, you may be a million dollar baby, but I would not take a pic of you eating pizza. Not only is it not nice, but I do not worship celebrities. I worship food, architecture, books, travel and most important are my family's faces. Never fear Ms. Swank.
Finally, we walked over to Tartine. The line had not abated. 45 minutes later, we sat outside with a lemon tart, a slice of coconut cake with passionfruit cream, a banana cream tart (I think) and a few bags of cookies and some macaroonie thingies. It was delicious. The lemon tart was my favorite. Perfectly balanced, crisp buttery crust, not so sweet cream...lovely. I am glad we waited, although the service in San Francisco seems to be more about the servers than the product. There was no sense of urgency and absolutely no reason that I should have waited 45 minutes for ready made items. The people behind the counter were having conversations and laughing with each other. I thought, "HEY! GET TO WORK! PRONTO!" I have been told that this is an east coast vs. west coast thing. Cali is laid back and waiting is fine. It was worth the wait. Stay on the east coast! I am told. We waited 35 minutes for a cappuccino at Blue Bottle. It was delicious, but I am an addict. Addicts don't like to wait that long. I counted 14 people ahead of me. Maybe I am being unreasonable. It was very good coffee.
I think I may need more Cali in my life. I should not be so impatient.